Devin & Dave, I’m sending that Carburetor your way to Spearfish tomorrow USPS. I’m missing out on great riding weather here in Pittsburgh so I might send it priority 1-3 days. I’m very grateful that you are willing to do this for me.

You know, I’m not quite sure I didn’t ride it very much before I had it rebuilt but do not recall it happening. I took it into the shop to have them check to make sure the auto-lube is working and for them to go over the whole bike for safety so I can ride my with my son. The carburetor was leaking fuel at idle so they recommended me to have it rebuilt. They also replaced the intake boot that connects to the carburetor, spark plug, air filter, fuel filter and pet-cock. I just got back from a ride and I definitely need to take care this issue.

I’ll tell you what I’m not concerned about the money and I am happy to pay, but I would love to have it done by a professional (you or enduronut). If I buy the parts and remove the carburetor, can I ship it to one of you guys to do it for me?

Or perhaps I could remove the Carburetor and send it to somebody you recommend to rebuild it with all OEM mikinni parts?

OK with that being said, would you be able to lead me to where I can order a genuine OEM rebuild kit? I am fairly mechanically inclined and I think I might be able to do it myself.

Wow. I wish you were here for your guidance! I agree and think it’s in the carburetor and the mechanic wasn’t so good after all. I will do another rebuild myself unless I can order a replacement carburetor already done? Thank you very much for the knowledgeable input!

Correction, (runs great off the start)

I just got my 73 CT3 back from a Yamaha mechanic who professionally rebuilt the carburetor for me. It fires right up and runs great if the start but it kind of “bogs” or “sputters” when the RPMs get higher right before I shift. Is that something I could easily adjust on my carburetor?

Thank you for sharing that video. I really enjoyed it. I will just continue to use 90 octane since I believe my motor is completely stock down the road if I rebuild the head with higher compression then maybe I’ll switch to the racing fuel.

That video is awesome. Thank you for sharing that with me. Thank you for your suggestion. I will just continue to use the 90 octane for now and maybe if I rebuild the motor with a higher compression head then I will use the racing fuel.

OK, well the highest non-ethanol fuel I can find around my location is 90 octane. If I drive north about 10 miles there’s a place that sells racing fuel, I think is 111 octane that would be too much correct? If that will not hurt my motor &only help I will make the extra trip.

Thank you for your input. I am excited to get riding as soon as the weather breaks a bit. As far as fuel, do you recommend 90 octane (non ethanol)?

Thank you brother. Yes, I’m surprised all the lights work very well.

Your awesome! Thank you brother!

This one correct?

OK, great thank you and if you know anybody who wants or needs this manual, let me know. I bought it off eBay before I knew about you guys. I will be happy to give it away to somebody if they need it.

This manual will still be good to have right?

Thank you Devin! I’m going to have my insurance card edited. Should I worry about the title?